1920s Health Brunch: Fruit Puffs (1917) and Stewed Apricots (1900s)

Our 1920s Health Brunch series continues with our final installment - And what good is a brunch without a few sweet treats? But healthy treats are hard to find, and they were in the 1920s, too. Sugar was still considered something of a health food back then, as refined white sugar was essentially pure carbohydrate, and food scientists and nutritionists of the time understood carbohydrates generally in terms of energy, rather than associating excess carbohydrates with fat storage, as many nutritionists do today. Nutrition science was still in its infancy (the calorie had only been applied to food energy in the 1890s, and the first vitamin wasn't isolated until 1912), and scientists were researching sugar and its effect on human health. The advent of the Temperance movement also encouraged the replacement of one vice (alcohol) with another (sugar). Some health reformers did advocate for low sugar diets, notably John Harvey Kellogg, who believed that sugar was hazardous to your health. He and his younger brother Will Kellogg parted ways over Will's marketing of corn flakes, which included sugar. Will later won the legal battle to use the Kellogg name commercially, and John Harvey never really recovered from that loss. 

Digestion was also a huge concern amongst health reformers and medical professionals alike in the early 20th century. The 19th century and American diets were marked by complaints of dyspepsia, constipation, and other digestive troubles. Until the early twentieth century, fruits and especially vegetables were seen largely as filler foods that provided only the roughage needed to avoid constipation. To nutrition scientists, they contained little nutrition, as they often had limited amounts of carbohydrates and little to no protein or fat - the three primary building blocks of nutrition as understood at the time. In comparison, milk was seen as the "perfect food," because it contained carbohydrates, protein, and fat all in one beverage. 

Solving digestive troubles before they started was top of mind for many home economists and medical professionals, and the easiest (and gentlest) way to improve digestion and avoid constipation was to consume whole grains and dried fruits. The advent of the First World War increased focus on whole grains as refined white wheat flour was reserved for the military and Americans were encouraged to go "wheatless." Cornmeal was the most abundant substitute, but rye, barley, and oats were all used. Although cold cereals like those produced by Will Kellogg and Kellogg rival C.W. Post were starting to gain ground, cooked cereals like oatmeal, malt-o-meal, Cream of Wheat, etc. were still popular. 

Dried fruits were another go-to solution to digestive trouble. The poor prune (a.k.a. dried plum) has retained that reputation to this day, and Prune Whip was one of the recipes I considered for this menu, but decided to forego since many historic recipes called for using uncooked egg whites. Dried apricots, figs, and raisins all were used in similar ways by early 20th century cookbook authors, home economists, and health reformers. To this day, an oatmeal raisin cookie is considered more healthful than a chocolate chip cookie, although their calories and composition might be markedly similar. Fig Newtons also have retained much of their association with healthy eating, despite being a type of cookie.

Prunes, raisins, apricots, figs, and dates were all developed as commercial crops in California in the 19th century. Many Mediterranean fruit trees were introduced to California by Catholic missions in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, including olives, citrus fruits, plums, grapes, apricots, figs, and dates. However, commercial production came much later. Commercial prune production did not begin until the 1850s in the Santa Clara Valley. Muscat grapes were introduced to California in the 1850s, but commercial raisin production did not begin until the 1870s in the San Joaquin Valley, notably with the development of the "Thompson Seedless" variety. Apricots were also introduced in the 1850s to the Santa Clara Valley, production did not peak until the 1920s. Mission figs had been known in California since the days of Catholic missions, but they were not considered as desirable as Turkish Smyrna figs, which were finally introduced in the late 19th century in the San Joaquin Valley. Dates were the last to be brought to California, introduced in the early 20th century to the Coachella Valley. 

In the 1900s and 1910s, many fruit growers around the country were consolidating into groups and cooperatives. In 1893, the Southern California Fruit Exchange was formed of orange growers. By 1905, it renamed itself the California Fruit Growers Exchange, and in 1907 launched the "Sunkist" brand for citrus fruits. In 1912, the California Associated Raisin Company was established, and in 1915 they debuted the Sun-Maid brand. In 1917, the California Prune and Apricot Growers Association was formed, later taking on the moniker "Sunsweet." With the rising interest in both health foods and California fresh produce in the 1920s, recipes like Chef Wyman's "Sunland Salad" became more commonplace. 

​Which brings us to our final two recipes: Fruit Puffs, from 1917, and Stewed Apricots. 

Fruit Puffs (1917)

"Fruit Puffs" are something of a misnomer, as you'll see. I tracked down this recipe in The National Food and Health Book, a cookbook published in 1917 by Robert Addison Harrison in Lincoln, Nebraska. It was a cookbook designed to meet the needs of the First World War. The first half of the book is devoted to information about nutrition science (including some lifted from the Cornell University reading courses for the farm wife), meal planning, food conservation, advice for leftovers, and suggested menus. The second half of the book is devoted to "Economical Recipes," many of which are eggless or call for stretching meat rations. Although there are no recipes labeled "wheatless," there are a number of recipes including whole grains. I decided I wanted a recipe that I could use whole wheat flour with, and something with dates. Fruit puffs seemed to fit the bill.

Fruit puffs recipe from "The National Food and Health Book" (1917).

All of the recipes in this cookbook are written in paragraph form, and I was reading it on my phone while I baked, which was not the best tactic, I will admit. So the puffs did not turn out as well as I'd hoped, in part because I fudged the recipe slightly. Here's the original, as written:

FRUIT PUFFS - Two cups flour, 4 teaspoonfuls baking powder, one-half teaspoonful salt, 4 tablespoonfuls butter or lard, two-thirds cup milk or water, four tablespoonfuls finely cut dates or figs, four tablespoonfuls chopped nuts, four tablespoonfuls sugar, one-half teaspoonful cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls butter.

Mix first five ingredients as for baking powder biscuit and pat out onto a sheet (one-half inch thick) on a board. Spread with butter (melted) and sprinkle with sugar, nuts, cinnamon and fruit. Roll as for cinnamon roll and cut into eight pieces. Flatten on greased tin and bake in a hot oven. (These puffs may be served as a pudding with a lemon sauce).

And here's my adaptation:

2 cups whole wheat flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons butter
2/3 cups milk
1/4 cup finely chopped dates
1/4 cup chopped pecans
1/4 cup white sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
2 tablespoons butter, melted

Whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt, then cut rub in butter until crumbly. Stir in milk and knead lightly until the dough comes together. If sticky, roll out on floured surface. If a little dry, roll out on parchment or waxed paper. Roll lightly into long rectangle. In a small bowl, mix cinnamon and sugar to blend. Spread dough with melted butter, sprinkle with cinnamon-sugar mixture, sprinkle with dates and nuts. Roll lengthwise as for cinnamon rolls and cut into 1-2 inch rounds. Bake on a greased baking sheet at 425 F for 10-12 minutes, or until lightly browned. 

The rather dry "puffs," pre-baking.

​These did not turn out as well as I'd hoped. Admittedly, I forgot a whole tablespoon of butter, and did not follow my instincts and add more milk to soften the dough a little. I also forgot that whole wheat flour absorbs more moisture than white, and I should have increased the liquids to compensate anyway. So the puffs were pretty dry. In retrospect, I realize I also did not "flatten" the rounds as indicated in the original recipe, which would have made them even less puffy? I do not understand the naming convention here at all. But the end result was a perfectly nice, albeit dry, biscuit pinwheel. The whole wheat, cinnamon, dates, and pecans all went nicely together. Next time I think I would add more dates and pecans, and make a softer biscuit dough. I don't think I would flatten them, however! (Well, maybe just a few, for science.)

Stewed Apricots with Cream (1900s)

Stewed dried fruit is quite an old dish, but as I mentioned earlier, stewed dried fruits gained popularity in the late 19th and early 20th century as a digestive aid and an inexpensive way to access fruit year-round (being considerably less expensive than canned fruit). Serving fruit with cream as dessert was also quite common, and among home economists, at least, a popular alternative to the digestion-busting pie Americans loved (and still love) so much. 

The recipe for stewed apricots (or any kind of fruit) couldn't be easier. Simply take dried apricots, cover them with water, and simmer over low heat until they are plump and tender and the water has thickened into a sauce. You can soak them overnight for even more rehydration and faster cooking. Serve warm, room temperature, or cold with a few tablespoons of heavy cream. Some recipes add sugar, honey, and/or spices, but most call simply for fruit and water. 

The stewed apricots were a nice juicy contrast to the dry biscuit pinwheels, and a good flavor companion. Of course, hot chocolate made everything better. 

And that, dear reader, is that! Over all I think the Health Brunch was a success - I learned some new cooking tricks, had a lovely time with friends, and best of all - someone else did the dishes! Here's to a healthy and delicious 2025. 

​Until next time...