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We'll close out our Fruits of August Tea Party recipes with the piece de resistance - a vegetable masquerading as bread masquerading as cake - Zucchini Cake with Plums. I grew up in the Midwest, and the eternal joke out there is that come late summer, Midwesterners, who normally don't lock their car doors, will do so, not to deter thieves, but to prevent overzealous gardeners from filling up their back seats with baseball bat sized zucchini. There are many, many ways to eat the glut of zucchini that invariably embarrasses any gardener foolish enough to plant more than one plant. I enjoy zucchini roasted or grilled with other vegetables either in tomato sauce, or balsamic vinaigrette. But as a born and bred Midwesterner, the ultimate way to eat zucchini, is as cake. Now, there are plenty of zucchini BREAD recipes out there. But don't let them fool you - they are bread in shape only. In fact, this recipe started out as a bread, but since I am a canny cook, I didn't let the title, or the pan shape, fool me. This recipe comes from a solidly wonderful cookbook called Savoring the Seasons of the Northern Heartland: 200 Recipes Blending Bold New Flavors with the Traditional Foods of the Upper Midwest, by Beth Dooley and Lucia Watson, originally published in 1994. A lot of really lovely midwestern cookbooks were published in the 1990s, as people realized that "fly over country" actually knew how to cook, and not just jello salads (Sorry, That Midwestern Mom). Savoring the Seasons' chapters are organized by ingredient origin and use, and the Zucchini Bread recipe shows up in the chapter titled, "Come for Coffee: Cakes, Cookies, and Bars." I used the recipe almost exactly as written, with a few minor changes. First, I wanted cake, not bread. Second, I wanted to include local Italian prune plums. Finally, because I was including plums, I skipped the suggested chopped nuts. As the recipe came together, it reminded me a lot of Marian Burros' Plum Torte, as both have a very thick batter. Because of this, I knew my adaptations would work and would be delicious. In the 1980s, the New York Times published Burros' famous Plum Torte every September for nearly a decade, before discontinuing the practice. Amidst massive protests, they put the original online. The recipe for the Zucchini Bread does slightly resemble the plum torte, but the end result is even more delicious, in my opinion. Zucchini Cake with PlumsThis is a very generous recipe, essentially making two hearty cakes. I recommend planning to give one away (or bring to your coworkers), or freeze one for later. If you'd like to make the original, leave out the plums, and bake in bread pans. If you don't like cinnamon, reduce it or substitute with a little nutmeg or cardamom. 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon baking powder 3 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon salt 1 1/2 cups sugar (the original called for 2 cups) 1 cup vegetable oil (I used canola) 3 eggs 3 teaspoons vanilla extract (I used homemade and measured with my heart) 3 cups unpeeled, grated zucchini (about 2 medium) 6 large Italian prune plums Preheat the oven to 350 F and butter well two 9" cake pans. Grate your zucchini (a rotary grater is a big help here). In a large bowl, beat the sugar, oil, eggs, and vanilla extract together, then add the dry ingredients (flour first) and stir well to combine. The batter will be thick. Stir in the zucchini until all it well-coated and combined. Pour equal amounts of batter into each cake pan, then drop lightly onto counter to remove bubbles. Halve prune plums and remove pits, then place on cake in a star pattern. Add more prune plum halves if you like. Sprinkle the tops with a little granulated sugar (optional), then bake at 350 F for 45-60 minutes, or until the center of the cake springs back to the touch. Let cool in the pans, then tip out onto wire racks to finish cooling. This delicious cake is dense, moist, and full of cinnamon flavor. The sweet-tart prune plums add a beautiful contrast in both color and flavor. You could serve it with whipped cream or ice cream, but I prefer it plain. I will definitely make this recipe again, but I think I would substitute some or all of the flour for whole wheat or spelt flour to add a little nutty flavor and make for a sturdier crumb. I would also reduce the cinnamon slightly and perhaps add some other spices to mix things up a bit. We ate much of this delicious cake ourselves, and I took the second cake to work, so I did not freeze one. But given the cake's crumb I think it would freeze well. Did you grow up eating zucchini bread or zucchini cake? What's your favorite way to eat August's ubiquitous vegetable? And that's it for the Fruits of August Tea Party, folks. Check out the original post for all the recipe links, or scroll back through the blog if you missed any. Until the next party, my dear readers!
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As anyone who has followed my parties and tea parties in the past, I'm a sucker for a good fruit salad. And August is nothing if not a spectacular month for fruit, especially stone fruits, which are among my favorites. So of course fruit salad had to play a role in my Fruits of August Tea Party! There are a few keys to a good fruit salad - quality, seasonal fruit, bite-sized pieces, balanced flavors, and not too much sugar. This recipe makes it easy to achieve all three. Fruits of August SaladI used what was seasonal and inexpensive in this fruit salad. You could easily use ripe peaches, nectarines, apricots, cherries, golden raspberries, early pears, melons, or any other seasonal August fruit in this salad (only Gingergold apples would be a little out of place). I managed to snag some little locally-grown black plums from a nearby farm stand and they were delicious.
1 pint blueberries 1 pint raspberries 1/2 pint blackberries 1 quart black plums 1 tablespoon sugar or honey (optional) Wash the fruit well and remove any smushed or questionable pieces. Stone and cut the black plums into quarters (dice, if using larger plums), then add the berries. Dust with sugar or drizzle with honey, then gently toss to coat. Serve chilled or room temperature, preferably in adorable vintage fruit bowls. If using in lieu of dessert, top with whipped cream or serve with a simple pound cake or biscuits and cream to make shortcake. Fruit salad seems like such a simple thing, and in many ways it is. But it's always a hit wherever I bring it, and it's endlessly adaptable. Just make sure the fruit is fresh and tasty on its own, or no amount of doctoring will save it. This particular one worked well because the fresh tartness of the raspberries livened up the more mellow blueberries and blackberries, and the sweet yellow flesh of the plums contrasted nicely with the tart purple skin. I'm a big believer in skin-on fruit, and with plums it's crucial. The fruit was sweet enough that it didn't really need the added sugar, but the sugar (or honey) does help make a sort of sauce of the fruit juices and helps to coat things and keep them fresh. What are your favorite fruits to make into a salad? What good is a tea party without scones? For the Fruits of August Tea Party, I wanted to have scones, but didn't want to take the risk of trying a new recipe. I'd been burned before. So I turned to trusted baker Dorie Greenspan. Her oatmeal nutmeg scones are among my favorites to grace the tea table. But nutmeg and oatmeal just felt too autumnal for a tea party meant to celebrate late summer! So I adapted. Literally. Thankfully, they turned out DIVINE. I will definitely make these cornmeal scones again. They are the classic scone - crisp, flaky, not-too-dry, but not gummy. I was worried about folding in whole blackberries, but it worked out wonderfully, with some careful handling. Here's my adapted recipe: Blackberry Cornmeal SconesI've long known that you can substitute whole grains for at least 1/3 of the flour in just about any recipe and still have it turn out. Cornmeal especially can be tricky if you use more. So since Dorie's recipe called for 1 2/3 cups of all-purpose flour and 1 1/3 cups of rolled oats, I thought I'd try my luck with a 2:1 ratio for cornmeal. Foolishly, I'd forgotten to buy buttermilk, but a substitute of whole milk and some bottled lemon juice did the trick. 1 egg 1/2 cup cold buttermilk (or scant 1/2 cup milk with a tablespoon of lemon juice, let set to "turn") 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup medium stoneground cornmeal (I used Bob's Red Mill) 1/3 cup sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 10 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter (1 stick, plus 2 tablespoons) not quite a pint of whole blackberries Preheat the oven to 400 F. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg and buttermilk. In a larger bowl, whisk all dry ingredients together, than cut in butter (I sliced my stick of butter three times lengthwise, and then turn halfway, three times lengthwise again, and then crosswise to make small, squishable cubes). Add egg mixture and toss with a fork until mostly combined. Knead a few times until the remaining flour is absorbed, then turn out onto a floured surface. Pat into a large circle, then place whole washed (and dried!) blackberries on top. Carefully fold the dough until the blackberries are largely encased - don't overwork the dough or it will be tough. Divide into two rounds and cut into small wedges. Bake on parchment on a large sheet pan on the center rack for 20-22 minutes or until golden brown. Transfer from sheet pan to a wire baking rack to cool. Serve warm with plenty of honey butter! Simple Honey Butter1 stick softened salted butter 1/4 cup or more liquid honey (I used local raw) salt to taste Mix the softened butter well with a fork in a small bowl, then add the honey. Add more to taste and extra salt if needed. Serve room temp or slightly chilled with the hot scones. Try not to eat the whole batch and a whole stick of butter by yourself. Do you have a favorite way to eat cornmeal? Blackberries? Do you love scones as much as I do? Share your comments and stay tuned for more recipes.
Unlike the Yellow Squash and Corn Frittata, this was a much simpler - and easier recipe! For the Fruits of August Tea Party, I wanted another savory dish that reflected the seasons and stayed within the color theme of purple and yellow. So this recipe is actually two - a delicious BLT-inspired dip I've made before, and smashed and roasted purple potatoes. I grabbed some yellow cherry tomatoes from a local farm stand to accompany some red ones I already had, along with scallions and some purple fingerling potatoes. Crispy Purple Potatoes with Smoky Tomato "Salsa"For the potatoes:
1-2 pounds purple fingerling potatoes water olive oil salt Scrub potatoes and check for blemishes (cut out any bad parts), then place in a large stock pot and add cold water to cover well. Add a pinch of salt if you like. Bring water to a boil, then lower heat and simmer until potatoes are fork-tender. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 450 F and oil a large baking sheet generously. When the potatoes are done, drain well, then place on the baking sheet and smash with the bottom of a sturdy glass. Flip to coat both sides with oil, then sprinkle with salt. Bake 15-20 minutes or until the edges are crispy. For the "salsa" (which is really only a "salsa" in the sense that it is a sauce made largely of chopped tomatoes): 2 quarts cherry tomatoes 1/2-1 cup thinly sliced scallions, white and green parts 1/2-1 tablespoon smoked spanish paprika 1+ cup mayonnaise of your choice (cut with greek yogurt or sour cream if desired) Wash and dice the cherry tomatoes (I like to slice in half lengthwise, then again in half crosswise once or twice, depending on size), then combine (juice and all) in a bowl with the scallions, mayo, and smoked paprika. Mix thoroughly a taste. Add more paprika or mayo if you like. To serve, top the hot crispy potatoes with a generous spoon of "salsa" and eat with a fork. Stay tuned for the rest of the tea party recipes, or check out the original post for links to everything. Enjoy! It's that time of year, when every teacher's thoughts turn to a mixture of excitement and dread. It's also the time of year when my teacher best friend and I have only a few weeks left before our schedules no longer line up, so I thought it was high time to have another tea party. This year has been busy, and I've been focusing on my book, but I thought it would be fun to carve out some time for a pretty tea party and accompanying blog posts. So, dear reader, here is my beautiful little Fruits of August Tea Party, celebrating the liminal space between summer and fall, when garden produce is abundant, and the weather still hot, but the leaves are starting to turn to gold and fall. When I first conceived of this idea, I knew I wanted to use my new Hazel Atlas Moroccan Amethyst dishes I picked up for a song at a thrift store months ago, featuring a set of four each of teacups and saucers, fruit bowls, and luncheon plates. They do also make dinner plates in this pattern, so now I'm on the hunt for four to make up the set! The beautiful octagon shape of the set was produced in the 1960s and has a distinct mid-century modern vibe, even though I always associate the colorful glass with the 1930s. The translucent glass is a plummy purple with a hint of red in it, rather than a more royal purple. To me it said plums and blackberries, so both feature in the menu. I also knew I wanted to use summer squash and tomatoes, and if we went with a purple and gold theme, who could resist purple potatoes and peaches, too? Fruits of August Tea Party MenuSummer Squash and Corn Frittata Adapted from the Yellow Corn and Squash Frittata recipe in Lois Burpee's Gardener's Companion and Cookbook (1968) Crispy Smashed Potatoes with Smoky Tomato Salsa Fruits of August Salad With blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, and local black plums Blackberry Cornmeal Scones with Honey Butter Adapted from Dorie Greenspan Zucchini Cake with Plums Adapted from the Zucchini Loaf recipe in Savoring the Seasons of the Northern Heartland (1994) and featuring local Italian prune plums Peach Pie My teacher friend is learning to make pie and made this delicious one with almond spice crumble! Peach Raspberry Tea We combined Harney & Son's Raspberry and Bigelow's Perfectly Peach teas in one pot This tea party came together fairly easily. I shopped at a local farmstand and got locally produced zucchini, yellow squash, Italian prune plums, little purple plums, and yellow and red cherry tomatoes. I picked up some scallions, blueberries and raspberries, and purple potatoes at a local grocery store. I forgot to get fresh sweet corn, which affected the frittata - the only recipe fail in the lot, which I'll explain below. Stay tuned for the rest of the recipes this week. Recipe Fail: Yellow Squash & Corn Frittata (1968)When bringing this tea party together, my friend complimented me for my fearlessness in adapting recipes I've never tried before, but as she soon found out, the adaptations don't always work. That was the case with this recipe, which I had high hopes for. I had gone looking in my cookbook collection for recipes using common late summer fruits and vegetables, and picked up Lois Burpee's Gardener's Companion and Cookbook, published in 1968. Burpee was born Lois Torrance in 1912 in Palestine, the daughter of a Scottish doctor and a Connecticut mother. During the First World War she was evacuated from Palestine to Glasgow Scotland, and endured the privations of WWI rationing. When her family returned to Palestine in 1919, she was shocked at the strong flavors, and the prevalence of vegetable dishes. Her father died in 1924, and the family moved to her grandparents' Connecticut farm, where fresh vegetables played a daily role in mealtimes. She studied botany in college, and landed a job with the W. H. Burpee seed company. Apparently David Burpee was smitten with the young scientist, and in 1938 they married. Lois' experimentations in the family vegetable garden and the kitchen soon began to influence the seed catalog, as varieties whose selling points were flavor more than looks began to be described as such, at her direction. Her cookbook and gardening advice book is chatty and a fun read. It includes advice on everything from garden size to which herbs go well with which vegetables, and Lois' favorite tools. The recipes are organized by growing season and ingredient. I thought the "Yellow Corn and Squash Frittata" recipe seemed simple enough and would be both seasonal and colorful. Here's Lois' original recipe: Yellow Corn and Squash Frittata This is a basic recipe that can be varied with the addition of other flavors from the garden. I prefer it made with crookneck squash or yellow zucchini. It makes a nice luncheon dish for two or three people. It is like a firm omelet. 2 tablespoons flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon baking powder 2 large eggs, beaten 1 summer squash (5-6 inches long) coarsely grated 1 cup scraped corn 1 1/2 tablespoons butter, melted Mix flour, salt, and baking powder together, then mix with eggs, squash, corn, and 1 tablespoon melted butter. Heat 1/2 tablespoon butter in a heavy 8-inch fry pan. Add mixture and cook, covered, over medium-low heat for 15-20 minutes. You can also bake the mix in a buttered casserole. Cook, uncovered, in a 325 F oven for about 20 minutes or until firm. The recipe seemed easy enough - grated yellow squash with "scraped" corn held together with a little flour, butter, and eggs. But I made several crucial errors with this recipe; first, I did not use fresh sweet corn, because I forgot to buy some, but made do with frozen which I ran through my crank grater to mimic "scraped" fresh sweet corn. Second, I did not follow the original cooking instructions, but rather the suggested alternate, which was to bake. Finally, my gut said to add another egg, more salt, and to cook it at a higher temperature, but I ignored my gut and followed the recipe. Which was a mistake.
Because I already had the oven going for cake and scones and roasting potatoes, I figured I might as well bake the frittata, too! So I buttered a 10-inch pie plate well and followed the baking instructions of 20 minutes at 325 F, figuring that a thinner mixture would bake faster. But that was a mistake. 325 was too low and after 20 minutes the frittata was still raw. Even after 30 minutes it wasn't fully cooked in the center. Lois, you seem awesome, but your baking recommendations suck. Next time I'll follow both my gut and your stovetop instructions. If I were to make this again, I would use fresh corn, try frying the mixture in a skillet, and also add an extra egg. I might also try skipping the flour and baking powder, but more experimentation is in order, methinks. I did add some chopped scallions, since I had them on hand and I thought the eggs and squash would be too bland. I also think the recipe could have used a little more salt, some pepper, and maybe some other herbs. Lois Burpee apparently liked to emphasize the "pure" taste of vegetables, but while my husband and friend thought the frittata was decent enough, and even had seconds, it was not for me. Have you ever had a recipe that seemed simple, but ended up being a bust? Let me know in the comments! And stay tuned for the other recipes, which unlike this one turned out fabulously. I'll link them back to this page once they're live. Until next time, dear reader! |
AuthorSarah Wassberg Johnson has an MA in Public History from the University at Albany and studies early 20th century food history. Archives
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