A few weeks ago my fellow food historian Niel De Marino gave a wonderful talk on Christopher Ludwick, an 18th century German immigrant to Philadelphia who ended up not only extremely successful, but also the baker general for the entire Continental Army. Niel also operates The Georgian Kitchen and is well-known for his impeccable attention to detail when he recreates historical recipes. Niel also teaches 18th century cooking at Historic Eastfield. For this talk, he baked not only give different gingerbreads, dating from the 1400s to the very late 19th century, he also baked stunning examples of molded gingerbreads. Although they were all delicious, my favorite was New York Gingerbread, and Niel was kind enough to share the recipes with everyone. So, when it came time to bake for a friend's housewarming gift (a very charming idea my husband came up with - salt, a broom, and bread), I immediately wanted to try my hand at the New York Gingerbread. Of course, I've recently been watching quite a bit of the Great British Baking Show, and this recipe felt a bit like one of their technical challenges - a classic, but with VERY sparse ingredients. The original recipe, which was published in the Dewey Cookbook in 1899, reads: 1 cup sugar 1 1/2 eggs 1 1/4 teaspoonfuls ginger 1/2 pint milk, half sweet, half sour 3/4 cup butter 1/4 teaspoonful salt 2 1/2 cups flour 1 teaspoonful soda Beat well together the sugar, butter, eggs, and salt. Add the balance of the ingredients and bake. New York Gingerbread (1899)I assembled my ingredients, but because who on earth knows how to add a half an egg, I doubled the recipe thusly AND added instructions, just for you lay-bakers. You'll also notice, that unlike typical gingerbread recipes, this one contains neither molasses nor spices other than ginger. It gives it a gentle heat and a nice purity of flavor. And despite 2 cups of sugar, it's not overly sweet. 2 cups sugar 1 1/2 cups butter (three sticks) 3 eggs 5 cups flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 cup milk 1 cup buttermilk OR 1 tablespoon lemon juice topped off by milk to make 1 cup sour milk Preheat your oven to 350 F and lightly grease two standard loaf pans. Cream butter and sugar together until smooth, then beat in eggs. Add flour, salt, ginger, and baking soda and start to stir into the butter mixture. Then add the sweet milk and stir a little more, then the sour milk or buttermilk. Work quickly to stir everything together - the batter will be quite thick. Spoon into each loaf pan until the batter looks equal, then place in the hot oven and bake approximately 65 minutes or until the loaves are cooked through. Let cool in the pans for a few minutes, then tip out onto a cooling rack to finish cooling. Serve warm or room temperature plain or with with whipped cream. For a great deal of guesstimating, I think this turned out quite well! A couple of notes: one is that I didn't have enough white all-purpose flour to do the double bake, so I used about half spelt flour. Which likely accounts for the darker color than Niel's. In addition, my baking soda was over a year past its expiration date. Between the heavier flour and the slightly flat soda, I think that accounts for the denser texture than Niel's, which were quite fluffy, but still chewy. That being said, the flavor was almost identical, although you can taste the spelt flour a bit in mine. Final verdict? I would totally make this again. It's addictively subtle - just spicy and sweet enough that you want to keep eating it. The crust is a bit crunchy right now, which I like, but as it sits (I'm storing it in a gallon ziplock bag), the crust will get tender and a bit sticky. Much like banana bread, which this strongly resembles. Niel says he bakes this in loaf pans (like I did) and does two things: either he double bakes it to make rusks, or he makes a trifle with custard and (get this) LEMON CURD. He's such a genius, and I'm so grateful he shared this recipe! Also grateful I was able to make a pretty good version of my own. And, as always, if you liked this post, consider becoming a member or joining us on Patreon. Members and patrons get special perks like access to members-only content.
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Happy Valentine's Day, everyone! Although Valentine's Day fell on a Friday this year, I had the day off from work (because I worked last Sunday). But despite that, I had a fairly lazy day. Slept in, didn't get out of jammies until noon, and then ran errands all afternoon before completing our annual Valentine's Day rite - NOT going out for dinner. Yes, that's right. For the first few years of our coupledom, my husband and I got gussied up and tried fancy restaurants with special Valentine's Day meals. It was incredibly expensive and not a great experience. So, a few years ago, I decided that at-home meals were best. Of course, typical turn-of-the-last-century holiday meals were often based around a color theme, thanks to home economists. But rather than go the route of pink-tinted mayonnaise and radish roses, I decided that the perfect way to keep things to a very Valentine-friendly red-and-white color scheme was to make a heart-shaped pizza, with red and white heart-shaped toppings. I won't give a recipe, largely because I used store-bought dough and store-bought sauce to make it. But I will say prepare to use a whole pound of shredded mozzarella and set your oven to 450 or 475 F for the best pizza baking experience. My last word of advice? Don't grease your pan - use semolina flour to dust the pan and/or your work surface - it makes a lovely crunchy crust, and is traditional. Years ago Chad got me a pizza stone and peel, and although I've only used it a few times, I thought I would give it another go. I normally make two pizzas on two sheet pans and it works great. I always make two pizzas because they're never as big as the kind you get from a pizza parlor and we like to have leftovers. Lots of semolina flour was in order to make wiggling the raw dough off of the peel and onto the hot stone work, but work it did. The only downside? Because the stone is smaller than a sheet pan, I wasn't able to make the pizza as thin as we like it - and the crust really puffed up. Which wasn't bad, I just prefer it the other way. Once we chowed down on some pizza, I decided to bake a cake. But, because I'm me and typically lazy, I thought Lazy Daisy Cake would be perfect. But also because I'm me, and I can never resist tinkering with recipes (and because I'd bought several quarts of fresh strawberries), I added a layer of strawberries to the bottom of the pan. In retrospect, should have mixed them in, but still delicious how it turned out. I first learned of Lazy Daisy cake from Marion Cunningham's lovely cookbook, Lost Recipes: Meals to Share with Friends and Family, but it's a 1920s-era staple. I made it for my 1920s Garden Party a few years ago and it was a big hit. But! a 9x13" pan only went so far with that crowd, and people love it, so always make more than you think you'll need. Lazy Daisy Cake is a type of hot milk cake - a type of sponge cake that combines whole whipped eggs with baking powder and hot milk to give it a lovely lift and a springy texture. The "lazy" part is two things - first is you don't have to separate the eggs before you whip them (although the mixing is anything but "lazy," especially if you are stubborn and do it by hand like I do). Second is the topping - a mixture of butter, brown sugar, shredded coconut, and heavy cream that gets popped under the broiler to caramelize before serving. Which is far easier than making a frosting and then frosting a layer cake. It's certainly not as pretty as a frosted layer cake, but it tastes fantastic - well worthy of any Valentine. Of course, if you'd like this the pure way - leave out the strawberries, or serve them cold on the side. My husband likes this with liquid cream AND whipped cream (and, sometimes, so do I - it's that dairy farmer heritage), but just about any dairy topping is delicious. My version is based on Marion's, but doubled. Lazy Daisy Strawberry Cake4 eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla 2 cups sugar 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 cup milk 1 stick (1/2 cup) butter (2 tablespoons, then 6 tablespoons) at least 1 quart fresh strawberries (optional) 6 tablespoons brown sugar 4 tablespoons heavy cream 1 cup shredded unsweetened coconut (or finely chopped pecans) Preheat the oven to 350 F. Butter and flour a 9"x13" metal pan (do NOT use glass!). Beat eggs and vanilla until thick, then gradually beat in sugar until very thick. Add flour, baking powder, and salt all together, then stir into egg mixture until smooth and thick. Heat milk and 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan over medium heat until butter is just melted. Meanwhile, wash, hull, and cut strawberries into quarters (cut the big ones into sixths). When butter is melted into milk, pour hot into batter and stir well until fully combined. Either stir in strawberries, or place in bottom of pan and pour batter over. Bake immediately for 30-45 minutes or until top is golden brown and springs back when touched. While cake is baking, take the saucepan from the milk mixture and add remaining butter (6 tablespoons), brown sugar, cream, and coconut (or pecans) and heat until butter and sugar are melted, then remove from heat. Do not boil. When cake is done, turn off oven and turn broiler on low. Spread the top of the hot cake with the coconut mixture, then broil for about a minute (watch it - it burns easily) until the coconut mixture caramelizes. Remove from the oven and let cool before serving with the dairy topping (liquid cream, whipped cream, milk, ice cream) of your choice. Or eat plain. What did you do for Valentine's Day? Did you eat at home and cook or bake something special? Tell me in the comments! And, as always, if you liked this post, consider becoming a member or joining us on Patreon. Members and patrons get special perks like access to members-only content. Happy Thanksgiving, Everyone!I've been a bit remiss in post-sharing on Facebook these days, but now that the turkey and all the fixin's (except the pie!) have been consumed at my mother-in-law's house, it's time for a roundup of all the great Thanksgiving-related articles across the web you may have missed these past few weeks. (This is a regular perk of being a Patreon patron, by the way.) Let's start with "Why We Celebrate Thanksgiving On the Fourth Thursday of November" from NPR. Indigenous Histories of Thanksgiving"The Thanksgiving Tale We Tell is a Harmful Lie. As a Native American, I've Found A Better Way to Celebrate the Holiday" Sean Sherman for Time Magazine. "3 Indigenous Chefs Talk About What Thanksgiving Means to Them" from Bon Appetit. "Modern Native American Cuisine and the Myth of Thanksgiving" from Modern Farmer. "The Native American Side of the Thanksgiving Menu" from NPR. "The Real Thanksgiving Foods" from Powwows.com. Early American Thanksgivings"Thanksgiving History: The Original Farm to Table Experience" from WVTF public radio. "400 Thanksgiving Turkeys Walking to Washington (D.C.) Market in 1826" from Researching Food History. "Thanksgiving at Washington Market, New York City" also from Researching Food History. "George Washington and Thanksgiving" from Mount Vernon. "Colonial Thanksgiving Recipes To Celebrate American History" from Walter Staib on PBS. The African-American Experience"Chef Marcus Samuelsson Gives Thanks: On Harlem, the black diaspora, and his own journey" on Salon. "The Roots of Black Thanksgiving: Why Macaroni and Cheese and Potato Salad Are So Popular" from the Washington Post. "Thanksgiving Soul Food Offers a Window to African-American Heritage" from the Baltimore Sun. Ingredients & Dishes"The History Behind 10 Thanksgiving Dishes" from Mentalfloss. "The History of Popular Thanksgiving Foods" from Redbook. "Hey! What Are These Oysters Doing In My Stuffing?" from Food52. "The Real Reason Sugar Has No Place in Cornbread" from Serious Eats. "Cornbread Dressing Is So Much More Than a Thanksgiving Side" from The Takeout. "Cornbread Kush Stuffing" from Michael Twitty via Vice. "From Culinary Dud to Stud: How Dutch Plant Breeders Built Our Brussels Sprouts Boom" from NPR. "This Twitter Thread On Weird Thanksgiving Side Dishes Does Not Disappoint" from the Huffington Post. "Filling the Cornucopia" from the American Folklife Center, Library of Congress. "Why President Calvin Coolidge Never Ate His Thanksgiving Raccoon" from Atlas Obscura. And, find out what happened to Rebecca in "The Thanksgiving Raccoon That Became a Presidential Pet" from History.com "This Man Made the First Canned Cranberry Sauce" from Smithsonian. "The Case for Heritage Turkeys" from Modern Farmer. Desserts"The Great Thanksgiving Dessert Battle" from the Philadelphia Sun. "A Brief History of Pumpkin Pie in America" from the Library of Congress. "American History As Told By 7 Pies" from Matador Network. "A Brief History of Pecan Pie" from Eater. Vegetarians"The Turkey Has Been the Subject of Thanksgiving-Day Arguments for Longer Than You Probably Think" from Time Magazine. "Turkey Alternatives Aren't the Key to Enjoying a Meatless Thanksgiving" from Diamondback. "Vegetarian Thanksgiving Dates Back to the 1900s" from JSTOR. Phew! That's it for the Thanksgiving Roundup this year. I hope this provides some good, post-feast reading and a way to work off that food coma before you feast on some pie. :D
If you want more roundups of food history-related news, consider becoming a member of The Food Historian! Regular roundups are a perk for every member level. You can join online here, or you can join us on Patreon! Members get access to members-only sections of this website, special updates, plus discounts on future events and classes. And you'll help support free content like this for everyone. Join today! One last follow-up to the Very Vintage Halloween Party! I wanted to share my recipe for Pumpkin Cranberry Bread Pudding. My husband loves bread pudding, but it can be a tricksy thing. Lots of recipes call for baking it in a water bath (too much work!), others end up making a bread pudding that is dry or too dense or otherwise flavorless. This recipe I adapted from my conventional bread pudding recipe, which calls for cinnamon and raisins. The key is to soak all the bread without being too runny, so add more milk if you need to. Pumpkin Cranberry Bread Pudding2 1/2 cups milk 1/4 cup butter 3 eggs 1 can (15 oz) pumpkin puree (or 2 cups homemade pureed pumpkin) 1/2 cup sugar 1 teaspoon pumpkin spice (or cinnamon with a pinch of clove and nutmeg) 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 loaf of unsliced bread (I prefer day-old challah) 1/2 cup dried sweetened cranberries Preheat the oven to 350 F. Heat the butter and milk over medium heat until the butter is just melted (stir occasionally to accelerate the melting). Remove from heat. Tear the bread into bite-sized pieces and fill a 9"x13" ungreased pan (I prefer glass) In a separate bowl, mix the eggs, sugar, spices, and pumpkin. Stir in cranberries, then fold in bread in stages until all is well-soaked. Add more milk at this stage if you need to. Pour the bread mixture into the ungreased pan and bake 40-45 minutes, or until a knife inserted 1 inch from the edge comes out clean. No need for a water bath or to cover it! Serve warm or cold with plenty of whipped cream. The best part about this bread pudding? Not only was it quick and easy to make the morning of the Halloween party, it also made SEVERAL converts to bread pudding. Lol. A number of people at the party mentioned that they either didn't like bread pudding and liked this one, or that it was the best bread pudding they'd ever had. Plus, it doesn't suffer much from storage in the fridge (if anything it just gets more moist) and is perfect for just about any fall gathering, including, (gasp!) Thanksgiving! So hope you enjoy this recipe and happy fall baking! If you want more party ideas, recipes, and other vintage food fun, consider becoming a member of The Food Historian! You can join online here, or you can join us on Patreon! Members get access to members-only sections of this website, special updates, plus discounts on future events and classes. And you'll help support free content like this for everyone. Join today!
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AuthorSarah Wassberg Johnson has an MA in Public History from the University at Albany and studies early 20th century food history. Archives
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